tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-41881239692504209772024-03-17T20:02:37.766-07:00Southside Master Gardener AssociationThe Southside Master Gardener Association (SSMGA) supports the Virginia Cooperative Extension and its mission to “enable people to improve their lives through an educational process that uses scientific knowledge focused on issues and needs”. Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger268125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-14055874906214846472025-06-17T12:11:00.000-07:002016-07-18T13:43:18.769-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;"><b>Welcome to the</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;"><b>Southside </b><b>Master Gardener Association! </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 16px;">The SSMGA provides a range of public outreach and educational programs including on-line and manned Help Desks at the Halifax Virginia Cooperative Extension Office and local Farmers’ Markets in Halifax and South Boston Virginia. Outreach is also through 4-H and other youth programs, adult education centers and support of the Southern Virginia Botanical Gardens & Environmental Education Center. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 16px;">We are committed to educating the public in sustainable landscape management and protecting our soil, water, and other natural resources for future generations. </span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-81523116968453063632024-03-02T08:32:00.000-08:002024-03-02T08:32:48.137-08:00 Brood XIX is coming! Be Not Afraid!
By Kathy Conner Cornell
VCE Southside Master Gardener
This is the year of the return on the 13-year periodical cicadas, Brood XIX, known as the Great Southern Brood. In Southside, the bulk of this brood will be in Halifax Brunswick Counties. Eric Day, Virginia Tech Entomologist, says that he expects spotty overflow to Mecklenburg County. You would be doing a real service, if you do see cicadas in Mecklenburg County, to email us at ask@ssmga.org and let us know where so we can keep Eric posted.
If you can remember cicada emergence in the past, it was loud. That is about the worst of it all – the noise. The cicadas will not sting or bite you. If one lands on you, it was just coincidence.
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Cicadas are scary looking with those red eyes but are harmless to humans. If they land on you, it is the freak factor that is chilling. They cannot bite or sting.
The colonists first encountered the cicadas in Massachusetts. They reminded them of the Biblical plagues so called them locusts. Locusts chew leaves, fly in swarms and are a type of grasshopper. Cicadas do not chew leaves or fly in swarms. They are in the Magicicada species.
The cicada life cycle is fascinating. To prepare for emergence, the mature nymphs build a tunnel type opening, they may include a chimney-like top. On the night they emerge, in mid-May, the nymphs will burrow out of their tunnel and alight on some nearby vegetation and complete their last molt. They have an incomplete lifecycle which means the nymphs look similar to adults. When they molt, or shed the exoskeleton, the life cycle is complete. The adults go on the hunt for a mate. The cicadas may seem to emerge all at once in a defense mechanism that scientists call predator-satiation. This means, that there is a large enough population so that if preditation does occur, there will be enough cicadas left to carry out the mission of successful breeding.
It is the need to find a mate that causes the males to make their “singing” and with such a large population, that can be quite loud. Per University of Maryland Extension “Male cicadas contract muscles to vibrate drumhead-like tymbal organs on their abdomen. This sound resonates and is amplified by hollow cavities inside of their bodies. Different species of cicada produce different songs.”
The females are capable of laying 400 eggs. To do this, the female will slice into an area on a small tree branch with her ovipositor, or egg laying apparatus, and deposit an egg. She may lay up to several dozen eggs on one branch before moving to another. This egg laying is usually done on branches the size of a pencil. This will cause little harm to established trees. Five to seven weeks after the egg is laid, the nymphs emerge and drop to the ground to burrow into the soil and feed on plant roots for the next thirteen years. Why do the cicadas do this? I’d like to give you an answer but there is no scientifically determined reason for this except it is what they do. There is also no definitive reason as to how they know when to emerge.
If you are planning to plant some young trees, you should wait until fall. This is the best time to plant woodies so they get a good root system established before leafing out in the spring. Insecticides have little value so don’t waste your time and money. If you do have small trees, you might consider covering the branches with netting so the females cannot get close enough to slice into the branches. USDA Department of Forestry suggests “covering vulnerable trees and shrubs with an agricultural netting of ¼-inch mesh or less”. This allows air and water flow and will keep the females away from the branches. Before securing the netting, be sure there are no birds or insects on the trees and shrubs.
Admittedly, cicadas are scary looking with those big red eyes. However, they won’t harm you or your landscape or vegetable garden. If the noise gets overwhelming, be glad you aren’t in Illinois. Some areas are having two or more different broods emerge this summer at the same time. By the Fourth of July, the noise should be over.
Cicadas are tasty bird food treats. It has been studied that birds and new hatchlings are hardier because of the extra protein rich cicadas. If your dog wolves down a couple, there will be no negative effect unless it gobbles too many at once. Humans are known to eat them and I found no shortage of recipes when I searched for ways to cook them. I am confident my husband will not surprise me with fried cicadas for dinner this summer.
Southside Master Gardener Associationhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15237697217446715108noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-42524725118224158152024-03-02T08:29:00.000-08:002024-03-02T08:29:38.761-08:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Uov2MgdFBAUCqk4yYIeyLmSxAz083wj3UjmY7GuDK6mSjVHIfC-RQLFH5zJaa2FNbHC2HX6TlvwCRcNWAy4qkVjqg5otk3bMZvLg371rLFocpMIxstJ4W1ry2G4mTN9-B5KUBkec1V1VGouMR7qz-lv4SjLp1mF9L5k2zfvKpoURyj_-IFxIFXp9YdM/s5152/Poster%202024.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="320" data-original-height="5152" data-original-width="3864" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Uov2MgdFBAUCqk4yYIeyLmSxAz083wj3UjmY7GuDK6mSjVHIfC-RQLFH5zJaa2FNbHC2HX6TlvwCRcNWAy4qkVjqg5otk3bMZvLg371rLFocpMIxstJ4W1ry2G4mTN9-B5KUBkec1V1VGouMR7qz-lv4SjLp1mF9L5k2zfvKpoURyj_-IFxIFXp9YdM/s320/Poster%202024.JPG"/></a></div>Southside Master Gardener Associationhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15237697217446715108noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-36227594053657265972024-02-24T07:51:00.000-08:002024-02-24T07:51:51.554-08:00Gardening Educational Programs coming to Museum
The VCE Southside Master Gardener Association will hold three programs at the South Boston – Halifax County Museum on Fridays March 8, March 22 and April 5 from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. These programs are free and open to the public but registration is requested and can be made by emailing ask@ssmgs.org or calling the Halifax Extension Office at 434-476-2147, option 0.
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English ivy, Hedera helix, is a very invasive alien plant that can take down trees if allowed to grow unrestricted. Attend the Invasive Plant lecture at the South Boston-Halifax County Museum on March 8 to learn how to control this intruder. Photo from Oregon State Extension.
On March 8, Natali Walker from Blue Ridge PRISM will discuss invasive plants in Southside. She provides technical assistance to individuals or groups, helping them to understand what invasive plants are present and management strategies that should be considered. Natali leads educational outreach events and programs, focusing on invasive plant management. Her talk will include plants that we find in our landscapes such as English ivy, Bradford Pear, Rose of Sharon and Asiatic Day Flower.
Culinary herbs and care will be discussed by Kathy Conner Cornell, Southside Master Gardener on March 22. Kathy will talk about the best cultivars of the herbs, how to treat them in the garden, how to overwinter and harvest. Many are perennial and will be available throughout the year.
The Garder as Healer will be presented by Master Gardener Taya Motowylak on Friday, April 6. Taya feels this subject is so important because she feels the garden can help people that have anxiety issues. Her hope is that from this discussion, others might learn the mental benefits of gardening.
Come and join the Master Gardeners for these presentations. Call the Halifax Extension Office at 434-476-2147, option 0 or email ask@ssmga.org to make a reservation.
The museum is located at 1540 Wilborn Avenue in South Boston. Light snacks will be served and Thyme to Eat, the Master Gardener Cookbook, will be offered for sale at each session. Hope to see you there!
Southside Master Gardener Associationhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15237697217446715108noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-81531675013965408012024-02-01T08:16:00.000-08:002024-02-01T08:16:59.894-08:002024 Master Gardener Class<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9O7aGvwUgMy6NYV50bpuiAUgVe2YVz5FhX6sm3_Ml0pwyrqZbxFuLVIxrS037USx07LEX1KOp_2ksJbl3R8xeL6Z8PB3-BEufOXJMcAHX0fDtY8Z_BL1_OA2hwcWE0fPKPaYEzJH6xSIQ4rOJ2gFqhZCQoNjqaqPxfdHTzBynm-gwtDNR2adbU7i0Fow/s1440/24%20Class%20with%20Bill.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="600" data-original-height="788" data-original-width="1440" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9O7aGvwUgMy6NYV50bpuiAUgVe2YVz5FhX6sm3_Ml0pwyrqZbxFuLVIxrS037USx07LEX1KOp_2ksJbl3R8xeL6Z8PB3-BEufOXJMcAHX0fDtY8Z_BL1_OA2hwcWE0fPKPaYEzJH6xSIQ4rOJ2gFqhZCQoNjqaqPxfdHTzBynm-gwtDNR2adbU7i0Fow/s600/24%20Class%20with%20Bill.jpg"/></a></div>
Pictured: Front row: Christina Schluter, Sandra Garner-Coleman, Ben Royster, Adla Angelina, Bill Will and Kelly Phillips. Back row: Bill McCaleb, MG Coordinator, Dawn Talbot, Barbara Mallard, C.J. Minor, Mary Jane Humphries. Brittany Clay. Celeste Carrington, Rhonda Hammonds and Michael Phillips.
Southside Master Gardener Associationhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15237697217446715108noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-22505855387443363132024-02-01T08:13:00.000-08:002024-02-01T08:13:20.219-08:00Boxwood Blight Update
By Bill McCaleb, ANR Agent
VCE Halifax
As we round out 2023 I thought I would update you all on the research and development that has been going on with fighting boxwood blight around the world. year, there is more good news for boxwood blight resistant varieties both in Europe and the United States. BetterBuxus® is the brand name of resistant Buxus cultivars in Europe, developed for resistance to boxwood blight (Calonectria pseudonaviculata) by Herplant BV in collaboration with the Institute of Agriculture in Belgium (ILVO) starting in 2007. These cultivars were obtained and selected through traditional breeding between different species of Buxus and are therefore considered to be hybrids.
There are four cultivars available, resistant to box-blight and each with its own specific applications. BetterBuxus® Renaissance is a low, compact Buxus hybrid. Characteristics are the small, dark green leaves, ideal for low hedges in broderie (parterre) style. BetterBuxus® Babylon Beauty is a low, broad-growing Buxus hybrid. The light green leaves and its strong spreading growth make it extremely suitable as a ground cover. BetterBuxus® Heritage is a compact to upright growing Buxus hybrid. Characteristics are the beautiful glossy, medium green leaves, very suitable for hedges and making topiaries. BetterBuxus® Skylight is a strong-growing Buxus hybrid. The glossy, medium green foliage and its strong vigor make it very suitable for ball shapes and volume applications. These cultivars are marketed exclusively in Europe for historical gardens and boxwood lovers and for the time being will not be available on the open market in the U.S. With the continued research, testing, and international trade hoops that have to be mastered, we can probably look to see these cultivars showing up in the U.S. by 2025 to join the NewGen™ Independence and Freedom that are currently available through some of our better known nurseries in Virginia, North Carolina, and Tennessee.
Think about Boxwood Blight when you dispose of your Christmas greenery
By Kathy Conner Cornell
VCE Southside Master Gardener
This time of year, many of us purchase premade wreaths and swags from both mail order catalogs and local businesses. We don’t know the history of these decorative items, therefore we don’t know if they may contain some contaminated plant parts. It is highly suggested, that after you have enjoyed your greenery and are going to discard it, that you place the items in the trash versus a compost pile or a discarded plant pile. The mite that carries Boxwood Blight is very small and most likely undetectable. So, it is better to be safe than sorry and risk contaminating your or your neighbors’ boxwoods by improper disposal.
Southside Master Gardener Associationhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15237697217446715108noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-28887700520988734992023-11-26T11:52:00.000-08:002023-11-26T11:52:32.051-08:00Let’s Talk Varieties of Crepe Myrtles
William H. McCaleb
Program Assistant, ANR
Hopefully you have already read another article on “Interesting Facts About Crepe Myrtles” by Janice Aulisio. There is so much to say about this ‘imported’ species. You already know there are all sizes from the dwarf shrubs, all the way up to single trunk 40’ trees. Selective breeding has given us over 200 different varieties that will grow in USDA zones 7-9 and a couple for zone 10 in south Florida.
Did you know there are Miniature/Weeping crepes out there that grow less than 3 feet tall? Yes, there is and will you find it in a local nursery? Most likely not. But there are several nurseries in the south that do have them. In fact, when VCE and the Virginia Nursery & Landscape Association were doing research, we tried the Chickasaw red at what is now the Southern VA Botanical Gardens. Three out of three survived the heavy clay we tested them in for four years. When the research was over, unfortunately someone didn’t like those ever so slow growing miniature crepes and they removed them.
How about dwarf crepes like the ‘Cherry Dazzle’ that only grows as a shrub to 3 – 5 feet tall. Yep, we tried those too. The ‘Tightwad’ is another one that works well in a large pot on a porch or patio. As long as they get plenty of sunlight they will do well. The downside is that most shrub type crepe myrtles tend to have more suckers coming up than the larger intermediate and tree sizes.
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This beautiful Natchez crepe myrtle is a large tree, around 20’ tall and you will find it lining many streets in the south including Natchez, Louisiana.
One of the prettiest intermediates (5-10’ tall) is the ‘America’ which has a beautiful shade of red bloom. Two others in this size range that are striking are the red blooming ‘Cherokee’ and the ‘Cheyenne’. Getting into the medium height trees are the 10 – 20 feet tall ‘Black Diamond Best Red’ (vivid red). These have very dark leaves which make them stand out quite well. Then there is the ‘Apalachee’ with the lavender blooms and the ‘Comanche’ with pink blooms. I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the ‘Powhatan’ with its large pink flowers.
I leave my favorite tree type until last. These are the ones that you find lining streets in small southern towns from Southern Virginia into the Carolinas all the way around the Gulf Coast into Texas. These all grow 20+ feet tall and there isn’t a color that you can’t find. Favorites that are mostly disease resistant are the red blooming ‘Arapaho’, the most widely found ‘Biloxi’ (pink), ‘Carolina Beauty’ (red), ‘Choctaw’ (pink), the white ‘Kiowa’ as well as the white ‘Natchez’. When you get into Louisiana and Texas you will see many ‘Dallas’ (red), ‘Tuscarora’ (pink) and for a large umbrella shaped canopy, you just can’t beat the above varieties as well as one more...the lavender blooming ‘Wichita’.
This will give you something to think about as you look at your landscape and start planning for an improved landscape that includes an introduced species from overseas. I have found over the years that most crepes or crapes, are drought hardy, once established. If you want to find out more about Crepe Myrtles you can visit the internet and remember that the best information comes from sites that have .edu or .gov in their address. There are some great videos out there as well from Clemson University, NCSU, Texas A&M, and many more. Enjoy looking and learning before you shop. The best time to plant is late fall or early spring.
Southside Master Gardener Associationhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15237697217446715108noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-27126981791653961192023-11-26T11:48:00.000-08:002023-11-26T11:48:22.687-08:00INTERESTING FACTS ABOUT THE ICONIC CREPE MYRTLE
By Janice Aulisio, VCE Southside Master Gardener
Crepe myrtles, called the “lilac of the South”, are prized for their long vibrant summer blooms in the height of the summer heat from June to September, colorful fall foliage and attractive exfoliating bark. They are deciduous (lose their leaves in winter) and come in a variety of sizes. Crepe myrtles can be considered a tree or a shrub depending on size.
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Crepe myrtles are a great specimen tree/shrub with four season interest if not “murdered”. Contrary to popular opinion, severe pruning does not increase the amount of blooms.
Crepe myrtle is the commonly accepted “southern” spelling but is also spelled crape myrtle. Either spelling is correct. The common name is derived from the crepe paper-like petals. The genus name Lagerstroemia indica is attributed to Magnus von Lagerstroem (1691-1759) a Swedish botanist and friend of Linnaeus. Although native to China and Korea, the epithet (indica) indicates the plant originated in India. When Europeans first encountered crepe myrtles in India, they assumed it was native. It was introduced into South Carolina in the late 1700’s by Andre Michaux, a French botanist.
Cultivar heights range from dwarf, semi-dwarf, medium to tall. Flowers can be white, pink, lavender and a deep red. The bark peels away to expose trunks (usually multi-stemmed) which range in color from brown, gray, pink and green. It is especially noticeable in winter giving them much winter interest.
Some things you need to consider about these wonderful trees.
• They can get taller than you may realize (up to 40 feet).
• Be sure to plant the right tree in the right place to prevent excessive pruning.
• They thrive in harsh sun and drought conditions.
• Can grow in poor soil.
• Remember to water newly planted trees frequently.
• Grow in Zone 7, 8, 9 or 10.
• Don’t forget to fertilize.
• Prune correctly and don’t be a “crepe murderer”!
• Powdery mildew and bark scale can be a problem in our area..
Birds like to eat the seeds including cardinals, finches, juncos and sparrows. Butterflies, bees and hummingbirds love the abundance of blooms.
If you are looking for a colorful, low maintenance, hardy tree, consider a crepe myrtle!
o:
Southside Master Gardener Associationhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15237697217446715108noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-9195832302806849172023-11-26T11:42:00.000-08:002023-11-26T11:42:45.806-08:00“A Pine That’s Not a Pine, and a Norfolk That Isn’t In Virginia”
By K. Bagby, VCE Southside Master Gardener; Virginia Master Naturalist
Well, ‘tis the season! Judging from the Christmas displays we started seeing well before Halloween, it’s been the season for awhile now, and I’m just slow on the uptake. I’d like to think I’m not (very) slow, just old-fashioned. I prefer to enjoy Thanksgiving before I break out the candy canes.
One thing I do look forward to well before Christmas is the assortment of plants that turn up in the floral sections of the stores and at florists. I’ve already seen some really lovely holiday cacti. Some of these are really tempting, especially those lovely Schlumbergera, the holiday cacti, with the cream-colored blooms. There are paperwhite bulbs for forcing, and I’ve seen a few amaryllis kits as well.
What I’m looking for this year, however, are the Norfolk pines. I doubt that I’ll get any, because I just don’t have the quality of light they need, but a few more grow lights and I might just get there!
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The Norfolk Island Pine can make a nice table top Christmas tree with LED lights and light decorations.
The Norfolk pine, or Norfolk Island Pine, is from the Araucaria genus. There are about 19 species in the genus, indigenous to the southern hemisphere. Norfolk Island is northwest of New Zealand and the Norfolk Island Pine is native there. Araucaria heterophylla is the genus and species name of this plant. It’s a species of conifer but isn’t actually a pine.
In the wild, it grows in a pyramid shape with wide-spaced branches arranged in horizontal tiers around a single straight trunk. It can reach a height of 200 feet. Cultivated trees grown in the proper climate typically get to 60-100 feet.
As an indoor plant, the Norfolk pine is a slow grower with sword-like leaves that turn inward in an overlapping herringbone pattern. It likes cooler indoor temperatures of 55-65F and indirect medium to bright light. It can reach heights of 9 feet or more, though careful pruning can limit this. Pot it in fertile, slightly acidic soil that is well-drained (porous, sandy, and peaty). Repot it every 3-4 years or when roots become visible at the soil surface. Norfolk pines have weak root systems and prefer to be a little pot-bound.
Full sun is best for growth, but if your plant starts to yellow it might need a little light afternoon shade. Rotate it weekly or so to keep growth symmetrical. This is especially helpful in keeping the trunk straight.
Be careful not to over- or underwater these plants. Water them thoroughly and consistently when the top of the soil dries, once every week or two, and don’t let their feet rest in standing water. If your home’s especially dry, they may benefit from misting or being grouped with other plants to help keep a little zone of higher humidity around them.
If you fertilize them, once a month in the spring and summer should be sufficient.
Spring through fall, these little trees can go outside as long as temperatures don’t fall consistently below 50F.
This is another houseplant that’s slightly toxic to pets, so keep it out of reach or try a different plant.
I haven’t forgotten the Christmas part! Their branches aren’t strong enough to hold heavy ornaments, but they do just fine with lighter ones or bows. Use LED lights to avoid burning the branches. Enjoy your little tabletop tree. Maybe put a shiny beaded spiderweb and spider in it for luck. Or, I suppose, Spiderman if you have superhero fans in the house.
Many thanks to our Virginia Cooperative Extension Southside Master Gardeners and Virginia Master Naturalist Southern Piedmont Chapter, and to all the people who give their time to and through these groups to serve their communities.
The Virginia Cooperative Extension Halifax Extension Office is open from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday-Friday. If you have gardening questions, you can continue to reach an extension master gardener or extension staff member by sending an email to wmccaleb@vt.edu or calling the Halifax Extension Master Gardener Help Desk at 434-830-3383. Be sure to give us your first and last name, telephone number and the nature of the call. The help desk phone is routinely checked Monday-Friday. Someone will get back to you, although it may be from a different telephone number.
Southside Master Gardener Associationhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15237697217446715108noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-58334489934905652732023-11-26T11:38:00.000-08:002023-11-26T11:38:50.747-08:00Landscape for Life Offered this Spring
Are you a gardener new to Southside Virginia or the northern piedmont of North Carolina? Have you ever wanted to take the Master Gardener course but are still working or don’t want to commit to the volunteer obligation? The VCE Southside Master Gardener Association’s Landscape for Life may be just what you need. Landscape for Life is based on sustainable landscape practices. Think of it as a mini-Master Gardener training. The six classes will occur on Fridays January 26, February 9, March 1, March 15, March 29 and April 12, 2024. All classes are held from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. at the Halifax Extension Office.
The Landscape for Life series starts off on January 26 with an introduction to soils by Kathy Conner Cornell. Most times we don’t give soil any thought. Soils are everything to the plant. It is through the interaction of roots and the soil that plants receive their nutrition and water. Healthy soils are the basis of a beautiful garden. You will need to bring a small baggie of soil from your garden to this first class.
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It is important to have sustainable landscapes that attract pollinators such as this beautiful native Baptisia australis, false blue indigo. If you are interested in learning how to garden with nature, sign up for the Landscape for Life being offered by Virginia Cooperative Extension’s Southside Master Gardener Association.
Water Quality will be discussed on February 9. Stormwater management is very important no matter where you live. We need to garden and manage runoff in ways that protect our waterways. You will learn special techniques to properly manage rainwater in your landscape.
On March 1, Kathy will review how to determine the right plant for the right place. It is important to avoid invasive alien plants that disrupt our natural habitats. Native plants can often be a good choice in the sustainable garden but not necessarily the only choice. You will learn what to consider as you make the best plant selections for your garden. Possibly there will be a special presentation on creating a wild flower meadow
Landscape design will be discussed on March 15. A strong design is the backbone of any landscape. You shouldn’t put a shovel in the ground until you’ve assessed your space and determined what functions you want your landscape to serve such as play area, private area or entertaining area. The design development will be an ongoing project but to help with the plan Jean Blanton, VCE Southside Master Gardener, will guide you through the basics of landscape design principles.
Materials, normally thought of as hardscape, will be discussed on March 29. In the landscape, hardscapes are often used for things such as fencing, arbors, trellises or pathways. This will be a fun session chock full of ideas on how to use repurposed/recycled materials to define areas in the garden. A main way we can recycle and repurpose is to compost. You will be guided through the steps to create black gold that is so important to our soils. Kathy will lead a presentation on Integrated Pest Management. Using chemical pesticides should be the last resort for garden pest problems. The IPM method details the steps to be taken before ever reaching for a pesticide and what improper pesticide use is doing can do to our wildlife especially honey bees.
The last class on April 12 will be devoted to each member’s personal design and their specific issues. Some designs will be discussed in the class and everyone will have the opportunity for a personal consultation. You will leave the program feeling confident that you can have the landscape of your dreams and help protect the environment for enjoyment of future generations.
There will be a $25 fee to cover the materials for the 6 sessions. Participants are encouraged to attend all sessions to get the maximum value out of the classes. However, if this just doesn’t work into your schedule, individual classes will have a $5 fee. The fee is for a family – husband and wife, parent and mature child or friends.
Advance registration and payment is are required. Space is limited. To register go to the Halifax Extension Office to pick up an application form, or e-mail ask@ssmga.org, to request an application form. Mail completed form and check made out to SSMGA to the Halifax County Extension Office, PO Box 757, Halifax, VA 24558-0757. The six classes will be held on 1/29, 2/9, 3/1, 3/15, 3/29 and 4/12 from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. at the Halifax Extension Office located at 171 S. Main Street, Halifax. For more information email ask@ssmga.org or call the extension office at 434-476-2147, option 0.
Southside Master Gardener Associationhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15237697217446715108noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-43208941047923071342023-11-03T10:57:00.005-07:002023-11-03T10:57:37.446-07:00Embarking on a Green Journey: The Whys and Hows of Updating Our GardensBy Joe Gasperini
Southside Master Gardener
Gardening is so much more than tending to plants; it’s a practice steeped in care, thoughtfulness, and a connection with nature. When our boxwoods have outgrown their initial spots, we find ourselves at a crossroads, pondering whether to let them be or take a bold step towards change.
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These overgrown boxwoods were removed and replaced primarily with native shrubs and perennials.
Size Management: Imagine creating a space where every plant thrives without feeling cramped, and each one gets its moment in the sun, literally and figuratively. The idea is not just to manage size but to let every leaf and petal breathe and bask freely.
Biodiversity: Envisage a garden where various critters – bees, butterflies, and birds – find a sanctuary. Different plants attract different wildlife, and in this dance of nature, our gardens become a vibrant, bustling haven of life and activity.
Disease Resistance: By choosing hearty plants, we safeguard our little patch of nature from the heartache of seeing them succumb to diseases. Our choices thus weave a stronger, more resilient tapestry of flora.
Climatic Suitability: Rooting for plants that thrive in our local climate is like cheering for the home team. It’s a nod to our inherent natural heritage, allowing it to flourish and dazzle in its authentic glory.
Water Conservation: A garden mindful of water use speaks to a deeper awareness and respect towards our planet and resources. Every drop saved is a step towards a more sustainable and conscious living.
Enhanced Aesthetics: There’s joy in watching a myriad of colors burst through the soil,
creating a kaleidoscope of life that changes with the seasons, offering new sights and wonders as days roll by.
Support Local Ecosystems: Picking native plants is akin to extending a hand of friendship to the local birds, insects, and fauna, creating a space where nature’s symphony plays harmoniously.
Reduced Allergens: In being mindful of allergens, we extend a silent note of care to our loved ones and neighbors, ensuring that the air we all breathe is gentle and kind.
Improved Air Quality: Plants that give us cleaner air weave an invisible yet potent shield, guarding our health and silently nurturing our environment.
Safety: A garden that ensures safe passageways tells a tale of thoughtfulness, weaving
consideration for every visitor, be it the mail carrier or a wandering cat.
Economic Considerations: Opting for low-maintenance plants is a nod towards practicality and forethought, ensuring our gardens remain a source of joy and not stress, both mentally and financially. In integrating these aspects, the decision to replace overgrown boxwoods extends beyond practical and environmental considerations, weaving into the social and emotional fabric of the community, thus enriching it in multifaceted ways.
Southside Master Gardener Associationhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15237697217446715108noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-91463627538740227562023-11-03T10:54:00.001-07:002023-11-03T10:54:46.176-07:00A Stately Companion by K. Bagby, Southside Master Gardener & Southern Piedmont Master Naturalist
Back in 1995 I found a plant pot someone had thrown away. There was still a plant in it, sort of. Half a dozen brown things stuck up maybe half an inch from the rock-hard, bone-dry soil, but there were traces of green in two or three of the scabbed, withered chips that were left. I didn’t know anything about plants at the time—still don’t, but that’s another story—but thought it was the remains of someone’s snake plant.
Always up for a challenge, I took the poor thing home and did the only thing I knew to do: I watered it and stuck it in the kitchen window, cheap pot, hard soil, and all.
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This snake plant can take abuse but tends to be unhappy with too much love. Beware, its leaves are poisonous so keep away from kids and pets.
Today that plant is out on my deck ready to come back inside for the winter. It’s too big to pick up anymore, so it’s on one of those little wheeled plant movers. It needs repotting again. There are five of its offspring scattered in the house and on that deck. I’ve divided it and given away its kids I don’t know how many times now. The two biggest ones flowered again this year. No doubt they’ll outlive me.
Sansevieria trifasciata used to be the scientific name for snake plant. The name was changed to Dracaena trifasciata after advancements in genetic research. Common names besides snake plant are Mother-in-Law’s Tongue, Saint George's sword, and viper's bowstring hemp, to name a few. Erect, spiky sword-like leaves are the plant’s hallmark. These are generally dark green with lighter green or slightly silvery markings. Some varieties sport yellow margins or stripes. If your kids or pets like to chew on your houseplants, you might want to reconsider this one. Snake plants contain saponins, which are mildly toxic and can produce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea.
D. trifasciata is originally from Africa. There are over seventy species and many cultivars. It’s an evergreen perennial that can be grown outdoors year-round in Zone 10 or warmer, but it doesn’t tolerate temperatures below 50 degrees very well. The stiff, upright leaves can be anywhere from a few inches to a few feet long and about two and a half inches wide. D. trifasciata is known as an easy plant to grow. It prefers bright indirect light, but will tolerate a lot less. It may not actually grow in darker conditions, but it’ll stay alive. Normal house temperatures and humidity are fine. These plants are shallow-rooted and thus top-heavy, especially when the soil is dry.
This snake plant can take abuse but tends to be unhappy with too much love. Beware, its leaves are poisonous so keep away from kids and pets.
One thing this plant won’t tolerate at all is overwatering, which will rot the roots. Use well-draining soil and water it only when it’s dry—you can likely go the entire winter only watering once a month or less. If you move it outside for the summer, keep it out of direct sun.
e a little root-bound. One old timer used to repot his when it was so root-bound it burst the clay pot it was in. Repot in the spring and don’t use too large a pot. Propagating snake plant is easy, though it can be a slow process. The easiest way is to divide and repot a large plant or wait till new-formed leaves have developed their own roots. Gently separate these little clusters from the parent plant and pot them up. It’s fun to do leaf cuttings, though it can take months before you see new leaves forming. Cut a leaf or leaf section from the parent plant, let the cut end(s) dry for a few days to develop a scab or callus (helps reduce chances of rot), then stick it upright in a pot of sandy, well-draining soil. If you’re doing a leaf section, it helps to cut a notch into the end of the section that was closest to the root of the original leaf. The notch reminds you which end to put in the soil, and some sources say notching increases the surface area available for new roots. Either way, if the section’s upside down, it won’t root at all.
Keep the soil moist, checking for root formation every few weeks by gently tugging on the leaf and checking for resistance. After roots start forming, you can start watering more sparingly, every few weeks or so. Be aware that a leaf cutting from a variegated plant will probably only produce green leaves because of a phenomenon called reversion. The variegated varieties of D. trifasciata don’t “breed true”—leaf cuttings almost always revert back to the basic green instead of carrying on with the genetic mutations that produced the parent’s coloration and patterning. So, if you want the new plant to have the old plant’s look, divide the old plant versus trying to propagate from a cutting.
Some good resources for more information: Penn State Extension (Snake Plant: A Forgiving, Low-maintenance Houseplant (psu.edu) and the New York Botanical Garden (Home - Snake Plant (Dracaena) - Research Guides at New York Botanical Garden (nybg.org) have good articles on D. trifasciata. Our public libraries in both Halifax and Mecklenburg counties each have several different titles in their catalogs for houseplant reference and care.
As always, I’m thankful for the Southside Master Gardeners and Southern Piedmont Master Naturalists, from whom I’ve learned so much. The Virginia Cooperative Extension Halifax Extension Office is open from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday-Friday. If you have gardening questions, you can continue to reach an extension master gardener or extension staff member by sending an email to wmccaleb@vt.edu or calling the Halifax Extension Master Gardener Help Desk at 434-830-3383. Be sure to give us your first and last name, telephone number and the nature of the call. The help desk phone is routinely checked Monday-Friday. Someone will get back to you, although it may be from a different telephone number.
Southside Master Gardener Associationhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15237697217446715108noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-54200545012000669022023-11-03T10:51:00.000-07:002023-11-03T10:51:06.622-07:00Virginia Cooperative Extension Announces Their 2024 Master Gardener CourseBy Bill McCaleb, Master Gardener Coordinator
Are you a gardener or landowner who would like to learn more about the soils and plants of our area and around you? Would you like to learn how to fix that problem area in your yard or landscape? Would you like to take your gardening knowledge and experience to the next level? The Halifax Virginia Cooperative Extension Office is proud to announce that we are now taking applications for the upcoming 2024 Master Gardener Course that will start on Tuesday January 9, 2024.
The Master Gardener program is a volunteer program offered by Virginia Cooperative Extension, an educational arm of Virginia Tech & Virginia State University. The program is designed to prepare citizens to become Master Gardener volunteers who help spread best practices and research-based information from our two Land grant Universities to the community. We currently have 71 active Master Gardeners who proudly serve the citizens of Halifax County and Southside Virginia. You may be someone who has participated in one of our Master Gardener educational programs. Why not come join us, learn some new skills, and have fun sharing with others!
You might be wondering, is the course really for me? Anyone can become a Master Gardener – you don't need a degree in horticulture or extensive gardening experience! You do, however, need to have a sincere desire to learn and share information about plants of all types and care about protecting our environment. Although it helps if you have practical experience or knowledge of gardening, beginners and those who don’t have that proverbial “green thumb,” finish the course with a wealth of knowledge that hasn’t been tainted with years of ‘bad practices,’ and develop new confidence in their gardening abilities.
Halifax Master Gardeners, once trained, spend their time sharing that knowledge with others in our communities. Some of what they share is how to put the right plant in the right place, how to control pests without harming the environment, how to use/conserve water wisely and how to plan and plant gardens as well as planning landscapes that are beautiful, functional and sustainable.
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Some of the fun activities that Master Gardeners do is helping children learn to garden early by letting them create a Fairy Garden.
If you enjoy working with other people, from youth to mature adults and enjoy growing plants of all types, this course could be for you. The course takes 3 hours out of each week for sixteen weeks to become a better gardener and to develop the skills and abilities to share with your neighbors and fellow Southside citizens. You will gain knowledge from some of the best instructors we have in Southside Virginia. We draw educators from professionals from Virginia Tech, botanist, researchers, and some of our very best experienced Master Gardeners.
You will learn how to apply research-based answers to yours and other’s questions about the culture of vegetables, herbs, fruits, nuts, lawns/turf, flowers, bulbs, houseplants, trees and shrubs, ornamental grasses and roses as well as integrated management of insects, diseases and other pests. You will get a greater understanding of our soils and nutrient management, as well.
In addition to the excellent training that you will receive, you will meet people with common interests; develop enduring friendships and gain satisfaction and recognition from using your talents to enhance the quality of life for the people you help. You will continue to learn "on the job," and may participate in advanced training opportunities. Active Master Gardeners will automatically receive a subscription to “In Season” newsletter from Virginia Cooperative Extension, along with our local Southside Master Gardener bi-monthly publication “The Garden Chatter”.
With the privilege of taking the classes, comes the responsibility of "helping others learn to grow." When you sign up for the program, you make a commitment to give back at least 50 hours of your time volunteering during the first year. For example, you can help with our “Help Desk”, help maintain, improve landscape design, or provide tours at the Southside’s only botanical garden, Southern Virginia Botanical Gardens. Perhaps you will find yourself working on educational displays for public educational programs that we put on throughout the county and towns. You will have an opportunity to assist in some of our joint projects with educational services with other partnering non-profit organizations throughout the county. Some of the educational programs our Master Gardeners are involved in include plant care, tool care, rain barrel, hypertufa and other workshops, pruning clinics, and other proposed and existing horticulture related classes at different venues in Halifax County.
Teaching others about gardening and land care is very rewarding. If you enjoy working with youth, Master Gardeners engage in youth educational activities through VCE’s 4-H program. Soil and Plant Sciences are part of the curriculum for our public and private schools. You may want to assist with educational programs through our joint efforts at the Southern Virginia Botanical Gardens at Edmunds Park and the Healthy Harvest Community Garden in Halifax. Opportunities abound and are available to enjoy helping others in our community or public or private school gardens. Other options include a horticulture therapy garden, staffing informational booths at public events, giving gardening talks or demonstrations in the community, or even providing administrative assistance to the Master Gardener program. Sign-ups for volunteer opportunities begin during the classes, and continues throughout the year. Many Master Gardeners choose to continue "helping others learn to grow" year after year. We have Master Gardeners who have been teaching and volunteering for over thirty-three years.
I can tell you from experience that being a Master Gardener is rewarding, enjoyable, and yes, at times, challenging as you learn new environmental skills. And, if you ask any of our active Master Gardeners, they will tell you about the FUN and comradery they enjoy as volunteers.
If you are interested in taking the course and help both yourself and others, you can obtain an application by going on line to https://halifax.ext.vt.edu/. Applications are available at the Halifax Virginia Cooperative Extension office located at 171 S. Main Street (next to the Library) in the town of Halifax. You can learn more about the Master Gardener Course and Program by sending an email to wmccaleb@vt.edu, stopping by the office or by calling 476-2147, option 0 and asking for the Master Gardener Coordinator or an on-duty Master Gardener.
Southside Master Gardener Associationhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15237697217446715108noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-86813147165139630712023-11-03T10:46:00.006-07:002023-11-03T10:46:52.662-07:00Its a Newt, Its a Gecko, Its Super Skink!
By Kathy Conner Cornell
VCE Southside Master Gardener
My husband and I often see what we say to ourselves “Look, it’s a geico!”. But I figured that I should be able to correctly identify what we see. I will attempt to offer an explanation.
Salamanders are amphibians like frogs and toads. They are shy so you rarely see them and they are non-vocal. A defense is to exude a bad tasting substance, some even to the point of being poisonous.
Benefits of salamanders - they eat slugs, mosquito larvae and flies as well as insects, spiders and worms. Some salamanders breed in water so most species young have an aquatic tadpole like stage where they breathe through gills. As adults they lose their gills and grow eyelids and a tongue. At that point, they have the ability to walk on land.
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This five-lined skink is a common lizard in Southside Virginia.
Newts are a type of salamander but are not as slippery. Newts primarily live in water but some young have a land phase then go back to the water. Salamanders do not have claws on their toes and have the ability to regrow tails, feet and legs.
Lizards, on the other hand, are reptiles like snakes and turtles. They live solely on land and they prefer dry warmer areas. The lizards body is covered in scales and they have claws on their feet and breathe with lungs. Lizards can jump, walk on water with their back legs and climb walls. Anoles, skinks and geckos are all types of lizards.
Actually, there is a gecko in Virginia but it is from the Mediterranean. This gecko can change into two color phases. The light phase is light pink to pale yellow or white with brown or gray blotches. Dark phase: the coloring darkens to gray or brown. Some people call geckos chameleons but they are not.
As is typical of imports, the Mediterranean House gecko came here on imported plants carrying their eggs. This gecko is more nocturnal and very happy to live in our homes. Once, in a Jamaican resort, we had a lovely villa where we did see a gecko climbing on the ceiling. They are prized in the tropics for their insect control, especially of roaches.
Only one anole is native to Virginia, the green anole, Anolis carolinensis. They can change color from bright green to dark brown. Both males and females have an extensible pink dewlap, which is a fold of loose skin that plays a part in sexual attraction. Females may be more attracted to a male with a more developed dewlap. Male dewlaps are larger and may be used to intimidate a smaller anole.
There are five different types of skinks in Virginia. The common five-lines skink, Plestiodon inexpectatus, are what we often see on our porch and deck. They can release their tails when threatened. It is hilarious when our cat tries to terrorize the skink and it sheds its tail. The cat is mesmerized by the flopping tail and the skink scurries away.
Some Virginia lizards are threatened by fire ants. One bite can kill a lizard. They have evolved to have longer legs, thicker skin and climb trees to stay out of trouble. Just in passing, there is one poisonous lizard in the United States. That is the Gila (pronounced heela) Monster which is found out west.
Salamanders and lizards are often housed in terrariums as pets. Salamanders usually fare poorly because their slimy skin makes touching difficult. Think about what it means to take one of these critters out of their natural habitat. Selecting a more appropriate pet might solve the problem.
May this will help you determine the difference between some of these species. But if you are like us, it is just easier to say “Oh, there is a geico!”.
Southside Master Gardener Associationhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15237697217446715108noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-75604741605181115642023-08-31T08:58:00.000-07:002023-08-31T08:58:03.769-07:00What You Should Know About Chiggers
By William McCaleb. Program Assistant, ANR
I just read a great article put out from Ohio State Extension, authored by Ashley Kulhanek about chiggers and just had to share with you all since many of you have been itching and scratching after being outdoors. The culprit might be the mighty small chigger.
Ashley started her article out by saying “Summertime was made for chiggers”. She is right on the money on that statement. Laying in the grass, playing outdoors, and gardening puts us right in the path of chigger bites. But what ARE chiggers anyway? And are you correct in calling that itchy leg their fault?
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The larva of the chigger can cause serious itching because of their salvia. (courtesy of Clemson Cooperative Extension
Chiggers are mites (Eutrombicula spp.) whose saliva causes intense, irritating itching in humans and animals. It is the mite's LARVAL life stage that is parasitic and feeds on humans. During the rest of its life, it is a beneficial predator of insect eggs and small arthropods like springtails. Chigger mites tend to be yellow-to-red in color though are usually too small to see. Chiggers are often mistaken as the red velvet mites, concrete mites, and clover mites that frequent our patios and lawn furniture. These are large mites, easily visible and thus quickly targeted as the source of our woes. Unfortunately, it's never that easy! Those larger red mites are NOT responsible for bites or itching in humans though they can stain clothing if sat on, and some may even be accidental invaders into homes.
Just a few quick tips on chiggers. Chiggers do NOT burrow into skin. This is a myth! Chiggers do not suck blood, instead they actually feed on dissolved skin cells. Also, you should know that only the larval stage affects humans, not the adult. Chiggers are very small (0.6 - 0.25mm) and are often unseen by the casual viewer. A good shower using soap and water will remove the mite. Once this mite has done its ‘thing’, itching can still last up to two weeks. That itchy feeling is the result of your skin's reaction to the mite saliva and can vary person to person; small red welts are common. You should always contact your physician to discuss symptoms, reactions, and treatment options.
For those of us who enjoy learning about the biology of insects, this little critter has a unique lifecycle: Egg, Larva, Nymph, and Adult. This mite larva has only 6 legs. Only after this mite molts into its nymph stage does it possess all 8 legs characteristic of mites and the other arachnids. Mites can molt through several nymphal stages before reaching adulthood and sexual maturity. It can take weeks to months for the cycle to complete, depending on weather, temperature, and conditions. Females can produce several generations a year resulting in high numbers of mites in a given area and repeated trouble with chiggers throughout the season.
Chigger mites overwinter in the adult stage in the soil. When temperatures increase, they emerge, mate and lay eggs in the soil in overgrown areas including uncut grass, fields, scrubby or weedy areas. Larval mites will climb to the end of grass blades or plants and wait to be picked up by the legs of animals and humans. When we walk by or play in the grass, the mites hitch a ride. They prefer to snuggle into spaces where tight clothing or elastic gives them shelter; therefore, the resulting itch may be focused around elastic on socks, ankles, waists, bra straps and armpits.
Chiggers will also feed on birds, mice and other rodents, cats and dogs, even reptiles, in addition to humans.
The larval stage is like any teenager; always hungry and looking for their next meal. The baby mites excrete salivary enzymes into skin, often at the base of a hair follicle, in order to digest skin cells into a slurp-able shake. The dying skin cells form a stylostome, a tube-like channel from which the larva sucks the digested skin slurry. AKA your own skin forms a little straw that the mite uses to drink up.
Chiggers can feed for 2-4 days on their host, but on humans we usually knock them off long before they can complete a meal through movement and scratching. After feeding, larval mites drop off and molt into nymphs, moving onto different food items. The itching reaction and welts can take several hours to develop and will last well beyond the mite's presence.
You can shorten feeding time by quickly washing up after being in chigger territory. Because they have not burrowed in, thoroughly wiping down exposed skin with a wash cloth or taking a good shower or bath will easily dislodge and remove the mites. Bathing also kills the chiggers. Make sure to wash clothing soon after as well to kill any remaining mites left on exposed clothing. The
And lastly, stay away from folk remedies you may have heard. There is no need to apply anything other than soap and water to remove the mite. Then you only need to deal with the aftermath by addressing itch. Speak with your medical provider or a pharmacist for recommendations on dealing with the itch.
PREVENTION
They do not feed long and the itching is just the prolonged reaction to their spit... so PREVENTION is the best solution.
Using insect repellents and wearing protective clothing can reduce incidents of all manner of bug bites, including chiggers. For those of you who have served in the military you probably learned all about prevention and treatment through a guide that was put out by service you were in. This researched information is supplied to recruits and Inservice personnel from the Armed Forces Pest Management Board.
Chiggers prefer overgrown, grassy habitats. These transition zones along paths, fields, thickets and scrub could harbor chigger mites, in addition to our own yards. Long-term solutions could include brush control, frequent mowing, and landscape changes that increase light exposure and air flow (less humidity). These changes can make your yard less appealing to mites and ticks. You can survey your yard for chiggers as well by placing a black square of cardboard down in the lawn. After about 10 minutes, mites will start to crawl up onto the black surface and there you have a better chance of seeing those tiny specks. A magnifying lens will help you check for their presence. Look for yellowish-red dots darting about.
Insecticides are not generally recommended as rebound populations may occur and only the larval stage is a problem. However, hot-spot treatments are an option for quick knock-down in the short-term. There are several products on the market for use in Virginia. Please contact your local Virginia Cooperative Extension office for recommendations, if you need help determining the right product. Remember, the label is the law, so you do not want to use the wrong product or use a product at the wrong time.
Remember there are OTHER things in the wild that can make you itch, including poison ivy, mosquitos, and other skin allergies. Extension Staff are NOT MEDICAL PROFESSIONALS and cannot identify bites or diagnose clients with chiggers or other skin ailments. We cannot recommend treatments for skin conditions. Speak with your medical provider if you are having problems with itching or severe reaction to chigger saliva or other irritations.
Southside Master Gardener Associationhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15237697217446715108noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-19795880179211447092023-08-31T08:54:00.003-07:002023-08-31T08:54:19.475-07:00
My earliest memory of jewelweed is when I ran into some poison ivy while working at MacCallum More. My supervisor told me to go to the herb garden and rub jewelweed where I was exposed. Needless to say, jewelweed wasn’t a landscape perennial so I didn’t study it in horticulture school. But I must have picked the correct plant because I didn’t end up with a rash. I did see a Master Gardener friend of mine rubbing jewelweed on his arms. He knows a lot of herbal lore and said he got into poison ivy. The stem juice is said to relieve itching from poison ivy and has also been used to treat athlete's foot. Scientific data confirm the fungicidal qualities.
The botanical name is Impatiens capensis. Genus name comes from the Latin word impatiens meaning impatient in reference to the violent seed discharge from the ripe pods, which gives it another common name, Touch-Me-Not. Specific epithet means of the Cape of Good Hope, South Africa, but this is a misnomer as this plant is native to North America. It is found in all counties in Virginia. This shows that it can survive in many types of climates and soils.
Jewelweed is an annual and is a prolific seeder. It can throw its seeds 4 to 6 feet. Its wetland status is Facultative Wetlands – usually occur in wetlands but may occur in non-wetlands. Generally, you will find it at pond edges, ditches. Mine is growing where the effluent of our upstairs air conditioning unit comes out and goes into a wash pan which makes a handy bird bath that I don’t have to think about. Occasionally the pan will overflow so the ground is kept moist.
Jewelweed gets about 4 to 5 feet tall. It is in the Balsaminaceae or touch me not family. This family includes the hundreds of species of Impatiens and also Hydrocera which has only one species and is native to India and southern China. The flowers of jewelweed are orange with spots. They are resupinate, meaning the flowers are upside down. The flowers are unique. The showy orange flowers of jewelweed must be cross-pollinated by insects or hummingbirds. However, jewelweed also has inconspicuous flowers that never open. These flowers (termed cleistogamous by botanists) fertilize themselves and produce seed without ever exchanging pollen with another flower. Cleistogamous flowers are very small (about 1 mm long) and are borne near the bases of the leaves. Research has shown that seeds produced by the showy, cross-pollinated flowers grow into larger, hardier plants, but the cleistogamous flowers produce seed at a much lower cost to the parent plant. Jewelweed resembles the closely-related pale touch-me-not (Impatiens pallida), which can be distinguished by its yellow flowers.
Jewelweed is attractive to the ruby throated hummingbird and bees and butterflies. Dew or rain beads up on the leaves forming sparkling droplets which give rise to the common name of jewelweed. Washington State considers jewelweed a noxious weed. The genus of Impatiens contains napthoquinone, which may cause mild to moderate irritation of the digestive track. It can hybridize with spurless jewelweed, Impatiens ecornutam, which is the Washington State native.
Next time you get tangled up in poison ivy, find some jewelweed and rub it all over yourself. I think you’ll be surprised that it really is effective.
Southside Master Gardener Associationhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15237697217446715108noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-10096879176923857382023-08-31T08:49:00.001-07:002023-08-31T08:49:33.204-07:00Tool Sharpening featured at the Halifax Farmers Market on 9/9
The Second Saturday with the VCE Southside Master Gardener Association will feature tool sharpening from 8 to 11 AM at the Halifax Farmers Market on September 9th.
Garden tools are an extension of the home gardener’s hand. Good tools are an investment, one that needs to be protected especially when money is tight. Fortunately, this is not difficult to do. Bring your hand tools to the Halifax Farmers Market on September 9 and the Master Gardeners will cheerfully clean and sharpen your tools for free.
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Bring your garden tools to the Halifax Farmers Market on September 9 from 8 to 11 AM. The Master Gardeners will cheerfully clean and sharpen them free of charge.
We all know that sharp tools, especially pruners, are easier to use, but did you know sharp tools are better for the plant? Dull pruner blades can tear bark or mash a stem leaving a wound that is open and susceptible to the entry of diseases or insects. The plant has defenses to heal from a sharp clean cut made at the proper place.
Bring your hand tools to the Halifax Farmers Market on September 9 from 8 to 11 AM and the Master Gardeners will clean and sharpen them at no charge. As always, Master Gardeners will be there to answer your gardening questions. Plan to visit the regular vendors with veggies, fruits, organic meats, herbs and eggs. Inside vendors have an assortment of handmade items and collectibles. If you want to know more about the Master Gardeners and their programs, contact Bill McCaleb at the Halifax Extension Office 434-476-2147, option 0 or e-mail ask@ssmga.org.
Southside Master Gardener Associationhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15237697217446715108noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-9630506384562729112023-07-21T11:05:00.000-07:002023-07-21T11:05:00.392-07:00Gardening Program Coming to Museum on August 18th
The VCE Southside Master Gardener Association will be presenting Kathy Fell of the Plant Virginia Natives Campaign to give a presentation on native plants for our area and discuss the mission of the Plant Virginia Native program. The presentation will be on Friday, August 18 from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. at the South Boston Halifax County Museum. Reservations are requested.
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This bright yellow False Sunflower, Heliopsis helianthoides, is a native plant that shines in the flower garden. It blooms from June to frost. Come to the museum on August 18 to hear Kathy Fell discuss why and how to use native plants in the garden.
Kathy Fell is originally from Ruxton, Maryland where she learned about natives from her Mother, an avid gardener. After attending college in New York, she moved to Minnesota to work for IBM. There she learned all about zone 4 plants and minus 40 degree temperatures. In 2007, she came to her senses and moved back east to Bassett, VA where she lives surrounded by 40 acres of woods. She is a Master Naturalist, a Master Gardener and a member of the Virginia Native Plant Society.
Kathy’s presentation will cover the topic of Why Native Plants? She will discuss the distinction between native plants, non-native plants, invasives, cultivars, hybrids and GMO species. We will learn what is a regional native plant and how it supports the regional ecosystems, how to plan a garden to benefit the birds and bees and examples of plants native to Virginia’s Southern Piedmont. The second half of Kathy’s talk will center around the Plant Virginia Natives Campaign.
This program is free and open to the public. As usual, light refreshments will be served. Please make a reservation by calling 434-476-2147, option 0 or email ask@ssmga.org. The museum is located at 1540 Wilborn Avenue in South Boston, landmark is the big red caboose. Hope to see you there for what will be an informative presentation.
Southside Master Gardener Associationhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15237697217446715108noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-7899595470376341412023-07-21T11:02:00.005-07:002023-07-21T11:02:59.935-07:00Perennials the focus of Second Saturday at the Halifax Farmers Market
It’s the middle of summer and plants are looking a bit weary. However, for early blooming plants, now is a good time to divide the plant to make more plants to share. Join the VCE Southside Master Gardeners on Saturday, August 12 from 8 to 11 am, at the Halifax Farmer’s Market for a perennial display. At 9:30 a special demo will be held showing how to divide a perennial that has overgrown its space.
As of this writing, Blue Star, Amsonia hubrichtii will be the featured plant. This native perennial has flowers that, as the name suggests, look like blue stars. It blooms early, late April to May, so is good for pollinators needing an early nectar source. The plant grows about three feet tall and has a nice yellow fall color. As with most natives, Blue Star wants full sun, is drought tolerant once established and doesn’t like to be fertilized.
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Visit the Halifax Farmers Market on August 12 where the Southside Master Gardeners will have a perennial display from 8 to 11 with a special demo at 9:30 where lucky attendees can take home a piece of Blue Star for their own yard. For more info call (434) 830-3383 or visit their website at www.ssmga.org.
As always, the market will have lots of fresh veggies, organic eggs and meat, baked goods, arts and crafts. Plenty of good stuff for everyone. The Master Gardeners will be on hand to answer all your gardening questions. August 12 is the Halifax Farmers Market celebration of National Farmers Market Week. There will be a back to school tie-dye workshop, a scavenger hunt and free melon and popcorn while supplies last. Monkey Butt food truck and the Snow Cone truck will be on site
The VCE Halifax Extension Office is now open. If you have gardening questions, you can continue to reach an Extension Master Gardener or Extension staff member by sending an email to wmccaleb@vt.edu. If you are unable to email, you can call and leave a message at the Halifax Extension Master Gardener Help Desk at (434) 830-3383. Be sure to give us your first and last name, telephone number and the nature of the call. The Help Desk phone is routinely checked. Someone will get back to you, although it may be from a different telephone number. For information about the Master Gardener program, please call the Halifax Extension Office at (434) 830-3383, visit the website at www.ssmga.org or e-mail ask@ssmga.org. Visit the market for the freshest and best local products and support local growers, our friends and neighbors.
Southside Master Gardener Associationhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15237697217446715108noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-5635252042989209202023-07-21T10:57:00.002-07:002023-07-21T10:57:59.746-07:00Hypertufa coming to the Halifax Farmers Market
The Southside Master Gardeners will hold a make and take hypertufa workshop at the Halifax Farmers Market on July 8th from 8 to 11 a.m. Cost for the workshop is $6 to cover all the supplies and materials needed but it can get messy so old clothes are suggested.
Hypertufa is the art of mixing Portland cement, sphagnum peat moss, perlite and water to make stone-like garden pots. The mixture can be made into many different shapes depending on what is used for molds. Boxes, bowls and old flowerpots can be used. Hypertufa pots have the appearance of an alpine trough, but are much lighter and easier to handle. They can add a natural, organic look to your landscape. Unlike clay pots, hypertufa does not crack if left outside over the winter. Sedums and Hens and Chicks are good plants for the containers and winter hardy.
The Southside Virginia Herb Society will be at the market with herbal cookies and herbal cookbooks. Possibly some plants. All purchases support their annual scholarship. Preston Simpson, Halifax County High School, was this year’s recipient.
Hypertufa is fun to make and easy enough for kids to participate. Bring out the family to the Halifax Farmers Market on July 8th and have fun making your own hypertufa container. As always, the freshest local produce and homegrown and homemade items will be available for sale. Visit the indoor market for a variety of special crafts, homemade soaps and lotions and collectibles. What a great opportunity to support your friends and neighbors and feed your family the best food available. See you there!
Southside Master Gardener Associationhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15237697217446715108noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-26156267554304421002023-05-31T07:48:00.006-07:002023-05-31T07:48:57.549-07:00June 10 Make and Take Fairy Garden at the Halifax Farmers Market
By Irene Dunn
VCE Southside Master Gardener
The Southside Master Gardener Association will hold a Make and Take Fairy Garden on Saturday, June 10 at the Halifax Farmer’s Market between 8 a.m. and noon. This event is free for youth and a great way to introduce kids to plants and gardening. All items needed to make the Fairy Garden will be provided.
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Fairy gardens allow a child to use their imagination and put together a garden that is unique using both natural and handmade items. Bring your kids to the Halifax Farmers Market on June 10 between 8 and noon for a make and take fairy garden. There is no cost and all items needed will be provided.
Fairy Gardening has been around for hundreds of years. It first debuted in the US in 1893 at the Chicago World’s Fair, where the Japanese Pavilion displayed bonsai dish gardens. It has become more popular in recent years. A miniature garden is where you can use your imagination to create a year-round tiny space to tend to and lure fairies where they feel at home and bring luck and happiness. This is a great, fun project for children to get involved in gardening, learn respect for growing things and making memories. Kids will love to plan, pick out plants, play in the dirt, construct tiny items and learn how to maintain their fairy garden.
The garden can be placed inside or outside in living spaces or the garden. It is a great advantage that you can build a fairy garden inside regardless of the weather. Any type of container with a drainage hole can be used. It can be inexpensive by collecting things such as pebbles, rocks, moss, twigs, bark, leaves, fabric, string, small toys, popsicle sticks or items made out of clay. These can be used to make fairy houses, paths, arbors, seats, swings, and ponds. There are many ideas and inspirations on-line and stores where you can also buy fairies, gnomes and accessories to make your garden magical.
While at the market, you will be able to enjoy fresh produce, organic meats and eggs, homemade breads and sweets and lots of arts and crafts. The Halifax Farmer’s Market is located at 209 S Main St, Halifax. Please put the Make and Take Fairy Garden on your list of the most fun things for your children to do this summer.
Southside Master Gardener Associationhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15237697217446715108noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-82693870331732717182023-04-30T11:50:00.000-07:002023-04-30T11:50:14.514-07:00Do Peonies Really Need Ants
By Kathy Conner Cornell
VCE Southside Master Gardener
My husband and I have a peony growing where we sit in the warmer winter/spring days. It amazes us how quickly it grows once it sprouts out, seems like 6” a day. Right now, the buds have formed but once the buds start to open, here come the ants. He always tells me that the peony needs the ants to bloom. That was not mentioned when I studied the plant in school so I thought I’d check it out.
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These peony buds will open and flower with or without ants.
Peonies Paeonia are a plant well suited to me. I may be able to talk and write about plants, but I am a lousy gardener as anyone who has seen my gardens can attest. According to Allan Armitage in Herbaceous Perennial Plants, peonies are a favorite because of “cold hardiness, ease of culture and the early blooms”. It is that ease of culture that works for me. They aren’t picky about soil, are drought tolerant and smell so good. I never fertilize them and Armitage warns that overfertilizing will reduce blooming. Did I mention that deer don’t like them.
Peonies love the cold. I did not realize until working on this article that zone 7, our plant hardiness zone here in Southside, is as far south as they will grow. Just like lilacs, they need a chilling period. Armitage said that a few cultivars bred for warmer climates, trialed in the University of Georgia test garden, have survived without the chilling period. Fortunately, here in southside we can grow any peony we want.
Now about those ants. The Integrated Pest Management Department of University of Missouri states “It is a myth that peonies require ants to bloom. The relationship between peonies and ants is a type of mutualism in which two organisms of different species benefit from the activity of one another. Peony flowers provide food for ants and in turn, the ants protect the blossoms from other floral-feeding insects”. The key words are “floral feeding insects” meaning insects that feed on the flower petals such as thrips, not pollinators.
Please don’t use an insecticide to discourage the ants. They will not hurt your peonies. If you want to bring some blooms into the house, turn the flower upside down and gently shake. The ants should fall out or you could gently rinse off the blooms and the ants will crawl out. Try to be diligent about this or you’ll bring ants into the house and you’ll get a pizzy ant lecture like I do!
Southside Master Gardener Associationhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15237697217446715108noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-70099273062056915482023-04-30T11:47:00.003-07:002023-04-30T11:47:27.692-07:00The story of a well-loved lilac bush
By Carol Nelson
VCE Southside Master Gardener
“I just want my plants to go to a loving home.” the 97-year-old lady told Paulina Hartsoe Carroll as she carefully handed her a slip from a lilac bush. The small cutting, wrapped in damp towels, was taken from the base of a lilac bush that came to America just prior to WWI, around 1913.
Paulina, a Master Gardener, definitely loves plants. Her yard in Crewe is a showplace of color and fragrance, especially in the spring. She was thrilled to be entrusted with the lilac – and even more intrigued to hear its story. The elderly lady went on, “My family was very close and all lived together until things got so tense in my homeland of Russia. We could feel the war coming on. My parents and grandmother packed our few belongings along with precious plant pieces from grandparents and great-grandparents, plus a couple of brooches to barter with and got on a ship bound for America.
“The ship ride was very hard. We hit bad storms. We were cold and hungry all the time in the dark that stunk like rotten potatoes. Several children got sea sick and many people died from no fresh air and being packed in so tight. I was scared that the ghosts of the dead people who were wrapped up and pushed over the side would come back to curse the ship.
“Then we saw Lady Freedom (the Statue of Liberty) and everyone started crying and hugging. I had just had my fifth birthday. We stayed in New York for a while with the men trying to get work. We finally settled in Virginia when I was teenager. I got to marrying age at 14 (she went on to have 11 children and lost three in childbirth; only six made it to adulthood).
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A cutting of this lilac bush traveled all the way from Russia and is now over 100 years old. It will be available for purchase at the May 6th Master Gardener Plant Sale at the grassy area in front of the Halifax Library from 7:30 to noon.
“My husband died in 2000 and all my kids in America are gone. The grandkids stopped coming by. Now I have to go to a nursing home and I can’t take my plants. This lilac cutting is from my most cherished bush – it’s the last thing I had from my homeland. It was massive, over 20 feet tall! The blooms were a pretty soft lavender with just a touch of violet purple and the scent was unlike any lilac I ever smelled.”
Paulina recalled, “This sweet lady reached out to me through a mutual friend who knew that I loved working with plants and helping those in need. I cried when she told me the reason she needed me.” Paulina nurtured the stem, helping it develop a good root system and then decided to share it and the story behind it with her fellow Master Gardeners. The 100+ year- old lilac bush will be featured at the Master Gardener Plant Sale the first Saturday in May.
This lilac cutting, so carefully brought across from Russia, is like many plants and seeds carried in baggage and in travelers’ clothing in the holds of ships to start in the new World The common lilac (Syringa vulgaris) originated in the colder regions of eastern Europe and was viewed as a harbinger of spring. It was first noticed in America around 1750 in Portsmouth, NH. Thomas Jefferson prized the plant and grew several different color varieties on the grounds of Monticello.
Lilacs are so hardy that they often outlive the households where they are planted. They are in the same plant family as olives and tolerate drought conditions, as well as heavy pruning. While lilacs are generally resistant to diseases, the leaves may show whitish patches of powdery mildew fungus. Planting the bush in full sun (at least six hours a day) will help deter mildew and produce the largest flowers. The planting area or large pot should have rich, well-draining neutral pH soil that is amended with compost.
Each spring, adding layers of compost and mulch will retain moisture around the roots and discourage weeds. Lilacs don’t like wet feet but should be watered if summer rainfall is less than an inch per week. Right after blooming is finished any suckers around the base can be removed and the bush should be pruned to shape and to remove any dead canes. The lilac will bloom the following year on older woody stems, so only a third of these should be removed at a time.
In our Zone 7 area, lilacs are champs at surviving the winter. In fact, most varieties are cold tolerant to well below freezing. They actually need cold weather to ensure abundant reblooming. They should be protected from icy winds and benefit from mulch to prevent frost heaving the roots out of the ground. Lilacs in containers should not be brought indoors.
Master Gardeners are known for their fondness for all growing things and for volunteering in the community. We hope to welcome everyone to the annual Plant Sale, May 6th, 7:30 am to noon in front of the Halifax Library, where plants of all types will be offered for sale. Like this lilac bush, most of the plants will have been donated by generous gardeners in the area. We hope to see you there.
Southside Master Gardener Associationhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15237697217446715108noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-91345582369721322212023-04-30T11:43:00.005-07:002023-04-30T11:43:53.320-07:00When Forsythia Blooms
William H. McCaleb
Program Assistant, ANR
Virginia Cooperative Extension
4/8/23
I know we all enjoy the beauty of those first blooming shrubs as they will really give you the Spring Fever. Thinking ahead to the greening of your turf, many of us have an annual grass called crabgrass. If you have been fighting crabgrass in your lawn, year after year, and want to know the best management practice to control this pesky weed, read on! There are pre-emergent products and post emergent products on the market that can be used on your lawn, or you can be pro-active and use some cultural means of controlling crabgrass.
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This smooth crabgrass should treated in the spring. Wide blade crabgrass can also be found here in Southside. Treatment is the same for both types.
If you want to cut down on the emerging crabgrass, if you will cut your fescue or other cool season grasses at a 3 1/2 to 4” height, you will help mother nature shade the dormant seed so it doesn’t germinate. And a quick jump into the future, remember grasses must reseed, perennial and annual grasses like crabgrass. If you cut the tillering heads off your crabgrass in the fall, you will cut down on the amount of viable mature seed that will lay there the next winter and spring forth in the following spring.
Or, getting back to using pre-emergent products as the Forsythia blooms drop, remember that if you use some of the more popular products that have both fertilizer and the pre-emergent herbicides, you will be cutting your turf more often when you add the nutrients in the fertilizer to your lawn in the spring. Virginia Cooperative Extension always recommends, for a healthy root system and grass plant, fall fertilization is recommended, not spring fertilization. Spring fertilization creates faster more tender growth that also is the right way to increase some of our fungal issues in turf, such as brown patch, dollar spot, fairy ring, just to name a few. If you use a pre-emergent, you may want to consider a product that does not have fertilizer in it. With the current rising costs of lawn, garden, and agricultural products, you may want to give it serious consideration. Just to recap what I said is prevention is a good line of defense and promoting a unhealthy environment for crabgrass is a good thing. Pre-emergent chemicals prevent seed from germinating. Crabgrass seed lies in the soil in wait, biding its time, for just the right temperature and moisture to emerge and wreak havoc in lawns for another season.
I should mention that many of our seed eating birds do like crabgrass seed, if you were wondering how new patches get started. The birds eat, but with an inefficient digestive system, seed comes out fertilized and ready to grow.
A little history on crabgrass, as mentioned earlier, it is an annual grass. No matter how much effort you’ve taken in previous years to control crabgrass, our soils remain a veritable seed bank of crabgrass seed from years past. This warm-season summer annual grass germinates from seed just prior to the first significant growth period of our lawn grasses. And as annual plants are genetically programmed to do since they live such a short time, they grow like mad and produce plenty of new seed under optimal temperature conditions. Hence, a warm-season crabgrass plant has an inherent competitive advantage against cool-season lawn grasses (fescues, bluegrasses, and ryegrasses) and can even slug it out with perennial warm-season grasses (bermudagrass (wiregrass) and zoysiagrass) because it gets a jump on them in early spring growth.
Post-treatment considerations? Costs of post-emergent control, again, are much higher than pre-emergent products and have been found to be not as effective. One thing required for all post-emergent herbicide applications is to water the product into the soil with either a suitable rainfall or irrigation event. The only way the product works is if it gets into the top of the soil profile to form a chemical barrier that germinating seedlings penetrate. Appropriate moisture is critical to optimize herbicide efficacy. And remember to keep all products on the turf and off hardscapes and roadways to avoid any runoff. This is the easiest way to protect our valuable clean water resources.
If you have questions about crabgrass control, please contact your local Halifax Virginia Cooperative Extension office on 434-830-3383 (the Master Gardener Help Desk) and if a Master Gardener is not in the office, they will get back to you as soon as possible. They may call from a different phone number as we have our volunteers checking the Help Desk daily during the week. You can also stop in the office Monday-Friday from 8 a.m. – 5 p.m. Monday through Friday.
Southside Master Gardener Associationhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15237697217446715108noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4188123969250420977.post-33667948805098131972023-04-02T11:05:00.003-07:002023-04-02T11:05:25.507-07:00What’s in a name?
By Kim Bagby, VCE Master Gardener, Virginia Master Naturalist
Those pretty white trees, so familiar in early spring. They blossom before they leaf out and give us a glimpse of summer’s promise. Most everyone I know calls them Bradford pears. Some people hate them, some love them, and all of us are stuck with them, at least for now. As an invasive non-native tree, it’s fouling our environment in more ways than we can count, but let’s face it: we’re not going to be able to completely eradicate the non-natives. The best we can do is damage control. That’s why, in some circles at least, we’re seeing a lot about how to deal with Bradford pears this spring. There are certainly plenty of experts willing to tell you how to do that, and we’ll leave them to it. There’s a pretty interesting story, however, in how we got here in the first place.
There are at least two sides to the story. The first one begins over a century ago in China. Fire blight was running amok in the lush apple and pear orchards of the Pacific Northwest. Frank Reimer with the Southern Oregon Experiment Station was looking for a fix. Fire blight is caused by the bacterium Erwinia amylovora and this was about a quarter of a century before the discovery of penicillin, let alone the streptomycin and oxytetracycline that would start being used against the disease in the 1950s, so he had to find another option. He was looking for a variety of tree resistant to fire blight that he could cross with our own native stock to strengthen the orchards’ resistance to the devastating disease.
By 1915 Reimer had identified a Chinese pear, Pyrus calleryana, the Callery pear, as being the variety he sought, and urgently requested the Department of Agriculture to send someone over to collect the hundreds of pounds of seeds and roots that would be needed to develop a pear that would save the orchards. Long story short, it worked. A resistant variety was successfully developed and put to work. It was even resistant to pests. Hurrah!
But the second part of the story is the one that concerns us today. In the 1960s, the Department of Agriculture released Callery pears, particularly the cultivated variety (“cultivar”, for short) “Bradford” for use as an ornamental tree. The Bradford is beautiful, fast-growing, and tolerant of a lot of different soils, nutrients, moisture, and light levels. It was sterile, meaning it couldn’t self-pollinate so it wouldn’t reproduce where it wasn’t wanted. What’s not to like?
A few things, it appears. As use of the trees spread, they also became known for the stench of their flowers. Their rapid growth can lead to limb loss from instability, and storms can easily damage them and whatever property of yours they land on. Rapid growth generally means short-lived. Their main pollinators are flies, not bees. And it turns out there’s a way around that pesky sterility idea.
There are different cultivars of the Callery pear in addition to the Bradford. Varieties such as 'Aristocrat', 'Autumn Blaze', 'Capital', 'Chanticleer, 'New Bradford', 'Redspire', 'Whitehouse'—these varieties were developed to fine-tune desirable qualities or downplay the negatives, or some mix of both. These cultivars may be sterile within their own variety, but they can cross-breed with others. I say they “may be” sterile within their own variety, but the trees that have cross-bred can and do cross-breed again, and again, and again.
By the 1990s, if not earlier, it was obvious that the Callery pears had escaped cultivation and were now growing wild. Within twenty years or so they had been found in habitats ranging from wetlands to forests, crowding out valuable natives that better supported local pollinators. As with everything else we plant in our gardens, their seeds go wherever the herbivores that eat the plants or their fruit go. And so they spread.
The offspring trees now have a crazy quilt of genetic backgrounds and interbreed readily, resulting in more viable seed, more expansion, and more dispersal of the species. You generally see them at the edges of the forest and in open fields where they can enjoy full sun, sometimes in dense thickets. The fruit varies from the marble-sized balls of the original Bradford that softened after the first frost, to rock-hard, tasteless, fist-sized pear-shaped, well, pears. Some varieties have wicked thorns. Most of them do have nice fall color if we don’t get an early hard freeze.
The offspring have probably drifted so far genetically from the Bradford cultivar that it’s not accurate to call them Bradfords anymore. But when someone says “Bradford pear”, we pretty well know what they’re talking about whether it’s actually a Bradford or some distant cousin.
To try to limit the damage, Ohio and South Carolina are banning the sale of Callery pear trees. Certain other states or areas are offering bounties for every Callery taken down, usually in the form of a free native tree to plant instead.
And the fire blight? It turns out that the trees weren’t the only ones evolving genetically. So was E. amylovora. Ornamental pears are increasingly at risk from the very bacterium they were developed to evade. Ah, the circle of life.
This is a complex subject and I read a lot of references. Any errors are my own. Much more information is available online or in our local libraries. Some interesting links are posted at the Southside Master Gardeners website, SSMGA.org.
As always, I’m thankful for the Southside Master Gardeners and Southern Piedmont Master Naturalists, from whom I’ve learned so much.
The Virginia Cooperative Extension Halifax Extension Office is open from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday-Friday. If you have gardening questions, you can continue to reach an extension master gardener or extension staff member by sending an email to wmccaleb@vt.edu or calling the Halifax Extension Master Gardener Help Desk at 434-830-3383. Be sure to give us your first and last name, telephone number and the nature of the call. The help desk phone is routinely checked Monday-Friday. Someone will get back to you, although it may be from a different telephone number.
Southside Master Gardener Associationhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15237697217446715108noreply@blogger.com